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to my web blog about training for fitness

My intent here is to consolidate, simplify and catalog some of the overwhelming amounts of information available on exercise, health and fitness. It serves also as my own personal fitness journal.

FEATURED POSTS > "Good Carbs Bad Carbs"

Disclaimer: Use this blog at your own risk! It is not intended to take the place of professionally certified training and or medical advice, directions, explanations of any kind. What I write here is what my own experiences have taught me and nothing more.

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Saturday, October 11, 2008

F A Q

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Q. Can you really add muscle and lose fat at the same time?

A. Yes, despite what many people claim, you can.

Here is how:

~ Consume less calories each day than you expend - a 400 to 1000 calorie deficit each day will probably work depending on your weight and stature.
~ Stimulate muscle building using hypertrophy resistance training protocols, - ie lift weights.
~ Alternate strength days with high intensity cardio days - use the "every other day" standard.
~ Increase your daily protein intake to at least .75 grams of protein for every pound you weigh.
~ Simple carbs are your enemy! Decrease or eliminate your daily simple carb intake - nix the refined flours and processed sugars etc..
~ Moderately increase your intake of good fats (unsaturated, like fish oil and olive oil) and fiber.
~ Drink lots of water - and no sports/sugar drinks on cardio days. Among other benefits, water helps your organs work properly so you can burn the fat off faster.

Basically your task is to stimulate and feed muscle growth while simultaneously using a calorie deficit to allow as much fat loss to happen as possible without hurting the muscle growth. In other words and to borrow a phrase, you're going to "burn the fat and feed the muscle".

It's not easy to do but if you are determined and monitor things closely you can do it.

Ideally you should lose no more then about 1 to 2 lbs per week max. If you lose weight faster than that you will probably be catabolizing (consuming) muscle protein as well which would inhibit your goal of muscle growth.

Many people think exercise alone can do it all including weight/fat loss but for the majority of people over the age of 25 exercise alone will not significantly decrease weight or body fat - it takes a nutritionally balanced diet ALONG WITH exercise to lose and keep weight/fat off.

Bulking up first to gain muscle by eating tons of calories each day and lifting, and then starving the fat off to gain definition is "old school" - it's an outdated way of doing things. There have been studies now that have definitively proven that yes, it's true, you can lose the fat and gain muscle at the same time. How long (and to what end) is this possible is another question.



Q. Why do muscles get bigger from weight lifting?

A. Muscle "hypertrophy" begins with a stimulus. The stimulus is resistance (aka "load") which provides a counter force to the muscle's motion (aka "contraction"). This stimulus then causes (you guessed it) a response or adaptation. Bigger muscles are just one of many responses or adaptations to the stimulus of resistance training.

It might help to think of this in terms of the stimulus being catabolic (muscle break down) and the reponse being anabolic (muscle building).

The key points are this: When you lift (or pull) a heavy load you are causing micro trauma to your muscles on the cellular level. This stimulates a repair process that rebuilds the muscle tissue to be better able to handle the new and heavier loads. Through a complex process, chemicals and hormones signal the muscle cells to produce (synthesize) more protein (which is what muscle is mostly made of) thus increasing the cross sectional size of the muscle cells. Also certain inactive cells (called satellite cells) are hormonally signaled to bind to the damaged muscle fiber and contribute to the tissue repair. Some physiologists suspect that the number of individual muscle cells themselves might even increase in number although this has not been verified in humans.

Some equally important components of the catabolic-anabolic cycle are nutrition (protein, carbohydrates and fats) and rest (aka "recovery"), without these vital aspects growth is greatly limited or even non-existent.



Q. Is it ok to do cardio on the same day as strength training?

A. Generally no.

Well, let me restate that. "Ideally" no. Depending on your fitness goals, if you have no other choice then doing both is certainly better than doing neither and probably marginally better than only doing one type all the time.

There are a number of training protocols (training systems and levels) that blur the line between cardio and strength training like "Cross Fit" for instance. But in general, if Im training myself at a gym like 24, Im gonna alternate my cardio days with strength days for the fastest results.

Before your workout, remind yourself what exactly it is you are intending to train this session. Is it strength? Is it AT/LT (ANaerobic Threshold) training? Is it long aerobic endurance? How does todays session fit into your plan? If its just to "burn some calories" then any kind of session will do that. But your body responds to the cardio and strength training stimulus in different ways.

Strength training induces a hormonal and metabolic response in the body that results in stronger and bigger muscles. Cardio/aerobic endurance training does NOT induce such a response except in the cardiovascular/respiratory system (in fact, cardio training uses up the very energy you would otherwise need for anabolic processes to begin following strength training).

These differences begin at the hormonal level of physiological response to exercise and you can see the end results in for example the differing body types found in sports like marathon running vs Olympic sprinting.

Cardio/endurance training actually changes the muscles on a cellular and sub-cellular level by increasing the size of mitochondria in the "aerobic" (type 1 and type 2A) muscle cells and even converting some "ANaerobic" (type 2B) muscle cells to "aerobic" type 2A or possibly type 1's.

The "ANaerobic" type 2B muscle cells are mainly what get bigger from strength training so to get that well defined "cut" look of a body builder or sprinter you would want a lot more of them, not less.

Doing a lot of cardio right after strength training negates the anabolic (muscle building) response you are trying to get from the strength training. This is one reason I prefer to strength train AFTER my cardio workout if I have to combine them.

If you can, separate the two routines by a day (or do a morning and evening split) so that your body will not be "conflicted" hormonally speaking and to maximize the benefits of training - thus improving both your performance and physique.



Q. Is being strong the same as having big muscles?

A. Not necessarily. Although strength and muscle size are related, functional strength is also a matter of neuromuscular coordination and not merely muscle size in and of itself.

Strength still comes from repetitive resistance training, but training specifically for it involves using heavier weights and lower repetitions than what produces the larger muscle gains (aka size) that you often see in say for instance, body builders.

Don't think that body builders arn't strong though as they get quite a bit of strength training done in their routines. But with "high intensity low rep" resistance training (aka, "strength protocols") you stimulate certain muscle structures (namely, more "type 2 fast twitch fibers" and what are called "high threshold motor units") that otherwise do not get stimulated by lesser weights and higher reps. This "heavy weight low reps" protocol produces more strength but not quite as much muscle volume increase as "hypertrophy" (bigger muscle) training can.

In a sense, you're sort of "spreading out" the load response because it's so heavy and thus not stimulating the muscle to get bigger in the same way as slightly lighter loads would do.



will add more FAQ as time permits...

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Sunday, September 21, 2008

There are no secrets*

Ever read about or talk to people who have found the "magic" formula, subscribed to some exclusive system or joined some mysterious "elite only" level gym or training club? Trust me they're out there. What you should always keep in mind when you encounter these various training "philosophies" or methods is simply this - there are no secrets to training and no exclusive "magic" routines. Although there are some things you or I may not know about exercise and the science of sport physiology, what the science says is what has been tested and proven by the facts - and it is not hype.

To get stronger you have to lift heavier.
To be faster you have to train for speed and quickness.
To go longer you have to train for endurance.
To generate more force you have to train for power.
To reach farther and be more agile you have to stretch.
To be leaner you have to build muscle and lose fat.
To achieve difficult goals you have to train hard.
To avoid over training you need recovery time.
To avoid injury you have to do it right and not over do it.
To have total fitness you have to train all aspects of fitness.

There are no secrets!

This is what I have learned over my years of training and if there is any one reason that I started this blog it is to post those ten simple principles. The hard part is (to borrow a phrase) just doing it - and of coarse, staying as injury free as possible.




..this entry still under consruction..

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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Wall Yoga*

Here is an exercise form that is especially (but not solely) good for rock climbers.

A lot of climbers practice yoga, and the real deal can't be beat if you find the right teacher. But if for whatever reason you can't take a class you can still "improvise" with moves like those in this video clip (see below, you may have to zoom in).

What is shown in the vid are just a few basic moves that are often encountered when rock climbing. When I do this routine I get pretty creative with the positions and try to make it as hard as possible - think out of the box and go for it. All you need to do this is a wall.

Try holding each position, relaxing and breathing slowly. Go for balance moves and stretch moves, try it with a pack on, as I said be creative and try to work in a lot of different (and contorted) positions. These should also take a certain amount of strength to perform. The blank wall helps you balance and gives you a feel similar to facing a rock slab on a mountain cliff.

Of coarse it doesn't really take the place of actual climbing, but it does help make up the difference when your day at the crags doing laps gets washed out by the rain and you don't feel like hitting the stinky (and very expensive) indoor climbing gym.




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Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Good Carbs Bad Carbs*

Carbohydrate (technical name "saccharides" - aka "sugars", "starches") is one of the 3 (or 4) "macro" nutrients. The others are protein and lipids/fat. Sometimes water is referred to (wrongly) as one of the 4 macros as well.

Carbohydrates are generally discussed in nutrition as being either "simple" or "complex". "Simple carbs" are shorter chain molecules of monosaccharides and disaccharides, while "complex carbs" are longer chain molecules called polysaccharides.

Simple carbs are quickly metabolized while complex carbs take more time and energy to metabolize.

Eating carbs - in particular "simple carbs" like candy, sugar, pop, cakes, processed sugary cereal, refined and white breads - will cause glucose (blood sugar) to quickly increase in the blood stream.

To make use of this energy source and keep a proper balance of blood sugar levels, your body (the pancreas) responds to the excess glucose by releasing insulin into the blood stream - this is sometimes referred to as an "insulin spike".

One of the ways insulin "clears" the excess blood sugar (glucose) is by causing it to rapidly enter the muscles for use as energy during exercise or sport for example.

While exercising, this can be a good thing for giving an athlete the needed energy to perform at their best.

But if you're not exercising, then the extra sugar in your blood will end up in other places, and the "insulin spike" will produce other effects on your body.

When not exercising, you won't use the extra blood sugar you got from downing those simple carbs for muscle energy - that means it will go instead into storage.

Insulin can cause excess glucose (extra blood sugar not used by your muscles) to be stored as glycogen (starch) - mainly in the liver for later conversion back into glucose. Again, this can be a good thing especially if you use up this stored energy (burn the calories) during activities like sports or exercise at some point.

But, another way insulin deals with excess blood sugar is to convert the extra glucose into triglycerides (blood fats) which are then stored in fat cells resulting in more fat on/in your body.

And, insulin also blocks the burning of stored fat for fuel which means if you boost your blood sugar with simple carbs it's that much harder to lose body fat (if that's you're goal) even if you lower your daily calorie intake.

I'll repeat this because it's important:

Simple carbs = too much blood sugar.
Too much blood sugar = insulin spike.
Insulin spike = energy for movement.
OR, if you're not moving, the BLOOD SUGAR GETS CONVERTED AND STORED AS FAT!

That's why its not so good to eat simple carbs very often (or at all) unless you're in the middle of performing or training in sports.

Cramming those carbs because they "taste good", are sweet, or make you feel good can result in a large amount of them becoming stored as body fat - something you will notice when you get on the scale or see a photo of your profile.

Also, because of the "insulin spike effect" (which is the very rapid clearing or conversion and storage of blood sugar) people who eat a lot of simple carbohydrates may feel hungry or very fatigued not long after eating those simple carbs.

This happens because in the coarse of insulin "doing its thing", eventually, even less glucose will be available to become "muscle energy" bringing on a state of "hypoglycemia" or low blood sugar. This is the "crash" that happens soon after eating sweets.

This effect is minimal during exercise however, or minimized if you eat complex carbs instead of "pure sugars".

Examples of "good carbs" which are also called "complex carbs" are: vegetables and green leaf foods, whole-wheat and whole-grain breads, oats and oatmeal, nuts, beans, fresh fruits and "high fiber" foods.

And one more "not so good" bit of news when it comes to simple carbohydrates - the older you get and the more times you eat those simple carbs as a young person, the more "insulin resistant" your cells become.

Another way of saying this is that the bad effects from eating lots of sweets and simple carbs as a child stay with you and even increase as you grow into adulthood. That's right, the effects are cumulative.

What this means is that as you age your muscles can't make use of the blood sugar as easily - so it becomes stored fat even easier. And, because of the higher amounts of insulin needed to flow in your blood, the fat you DO have won't get burned up for energy. In other words, as you age and as you eat more and more sugar over your lifetime, it gets harder and harder to burn the fat off with exercise.

This "insulin resistance syndrome" can end up causing many of the most common and deadly health problems including type II diabetes, obesity and heart disease.



SIMPLE CARBS MAKE BLOOD MORE ACIDIC

More bad news from simple carbs...as if all the above weren't enough?

Acidic blood (higher than optimal levels of acid in the blood) are another negative effect of eating simple carbohydrates.

Blood (along with a lot of other things) has a "PH balance". The "PH" level is a measure of how acidic or how alkali something is.

Usually this is described on a scale of 1-14 with 7.4 (slightly alkali) being the "normal" PH level of our blood.

A PH level of 7.1 would be considered relatively acidic and a PH of 7.6 would be considered relatively alkali. So, the higher the PH the less acid something is, and the lower the PH the more acid (less alkali) it is.

Got it?

Now guess what.., eating processed refined flours and/or sugar (aka simple carbohydrate) commonly raises the acidity level of blood - ie it lowers the blood PH.

I should mention that eating meat (high protein foods) also raises the acidity levels of the blood and that fresh whole vegetables generally lower the acidity of the blood (ie raises the PH).

Acidic blood (lower than 7.4 PH) is not desirable as it is less able to produce energy in and for the body (it inhibits enzyme function) and consequently may produce fatigue and even a higher susceptibility to disease.

The key point here is that one of the benifits of eating whole fresh veggies is a higher blood PH level (lower acidic level) which seems to have very favorable effects on your body both in terms of health and athletic fitness.



EAT THIS...

So here is a short list of suggested carbohydrate based foods that fall under the category of "good carbs". If it's a carbohydrate and NOT on this list you should really avoid it as much as possible.

The list (sort of) follows what is called the "Glycemic Load Index" or just "Glycemic Index". This index ranks foods on their propensity to cause an insulin spike and thus cause problems for diabetics and people trying to lose weight. (Search Google to find out more about the GI/GL index)

Now for my list of GOOD CARBS:


> Fresh Vegetables - Uncooked is best but lightly cooked is good as well. Salads all dressed up (without the 'creamy' dressings - use olive oil) are great way to get your veggies, just don't count "iceberg lettuce" as a veggie!

> Fresh Fruits and Berries - generally speaking, fruits and berries do have sugar yes, but also a lot of vitamins, fiber and lots of water so per serving it turns out to be a rather healthy and essential food choice. Every day you should eat a variety of them and avoid "dried" stuff unless you're exercising.

> Bran Cereals - All Bran, Muesli, Raisin Bran, Bran Buds... Bran and fiber are in vogue and all the rage. When in doubt about cereals, pick the "whole grain" types that are low in sugar and high, high, high in fiber.

> Oatmeal - Oatmeal is what I call a "SUPER FOOD". It is an essential every day whole-food. Although there are lots of (good) carbs in it, oatmeal also contains a good balance of protein, fiber and other key nutrients. It has soluble fiber which has been shown to reduce the bad LDL cholesterol without lowering HDL cholesterol (the good kind). Eat oatmeal every day.

> Nuts - Almonds, Walnuts, Hazelnuts, Pistachios, Pecans, even Peanuts are whole-foods which contain the healthy unsaturated fats (good for you). They have a good amount of protein and help keep your blood sugar in check, so GO NUTZ!

> Whole Grain Breads - Here we have some controversy. I'll admit it, I usually avoid bread altogether. But on the rare occasion I'll ALWAYS take whole-wheat and whole-grain over white. This is basic stuff right? White breads are refined, overly processed simple carbs and one of the worst things you can eat! (unless you're running a marathon).

Well in at least one study it has been sown that "sourdough" BEATS "whole wheat" in keeping your blood sugar spikes in check! This is counterintuitive I know, but it may be true because of how the breads are processed.

Anyway I still look for 100% "whole grain" to be listed near the top of ingredients list and choose the heavy (by weight) high fiber low sugar breads. Go easy on any kind of breads in any case because at 100-200 calories per slice they can pack in (on) the calories quicker then you think.

> Non-Fat Dairy Products - Or even low fat dairy is ok in moderation. These include skim milk and low fat yogurts. Gotta have some every day for the protein and calcium as well as the other nutrients!

> Beans - Here you have to be careful of what's out there. Choose either unprocessed (uncanned) beans or something with little to nothing added. Beans can be really good BUT, they are often stuffed in the can with lots of sugar, salt and fat so avoid those types. Beans should be eaten in moderation (small quantities) and a good complete protein dish is to combine them with BROWN rice (although that will probably give you a slight insulin spike so go easy on the portions).

> Whole Wheat Pasta - I don't eat much pasta at all (too many carbs in one plate for me) but if I do it is going to be organic whole wheat/whole grain pasta.



QUANTITIES

How much carbohydrate should I eat each day?

Complex carbs are actually pretty good for you. You should get from 40-60% of your daily calories from complex carbohydrate. 50% is a good and easy number to remember.

For the average 2,000 calorie/day diet, this means around 800-1000 calories (200-250 grams) per day if you're NOT athletic, and up to 1200 (or more) calories (300+ grams) per day if you train for aerobic endurance (run, bike, hike etc).

Athletes who go for "ultra low body fat" (body builders prior to a competition for example) eat very few carbs, but endurance runners need much more (60-70%).

Generally I recommend about half your daily calories come from complex carbs but please adjust actual amounts according to your daily calorie count.

SUMMARY

The take home message is this: For the most part, learn to identify and live without the simple carbohydrates altogether - choose life instead! Replace the simple carbs with complex carbs and high fiber foods. Maybe not today, but someday you'll be glad you did.

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Monday, September 15, 2008

Hydration*

Below is a bullet point type list of important information pertaining to hydration during exercise. I hope you find it useful.


~ Working out can and SHOULD cause you to sweat. For the average person, if you're not sweating from your workouts, you're simply not working hard enough.

~ Ive met people (I have to say, mostly women) who have never really trained in a meaningful way only because they abhor sweating or think it's "unfeminine" to sweat. This is seriously flawed thinking.

~ Sweating is your body's way of regulating (cooling) it's temperature and that's good.

~ Some people sweat more than others, but on average you can lose more than 2 liters of water per hour if you're exercising hard on a hot summers day - that's not so good.

~ Sweating is not the only way you lose water. When you exhale you also lose water in the form of water vapor in your out breath.

~ Sweating causes you to lose not only water, but salt (sodium) and other vital electrolytes. "Electrolytes" (sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, sulfate, phosphate, chloride) in the context of exercise refers to certain minerals which act as electrical conductors essential for proper neural-muscular function. When you sweat during exercise, you lose electrolytes (in particular, sodium and potassium). Eventually these need to be replaced or your bodies functioning will be impaired (or worse).

~ Fluid replacement during training or during an endurance event can be key to staying healthy and performing at your best or highest potential.

~ Among other things, dehydration decreases blood volume and (therefore nutrient) flow, causes body temperature to increase due to lack of radiant heat dispersion, causes cardiovascular and neural muscular distress, may cause muscle cramping and neural-muscular dis-coordination due to electrolyte imbalances, increases the risk of heat exhaustion and numerous other negative physiological conditions.

~ There is one theory that says "it's best to TRAIN for endurance in a slightly dehydrated state" and in a "carbohydrate (glycogen) depleted" condition. The idea is that you teach your body to adapt and over-compensate for these shortages during TRAINING and then up these nutrients at the time of PERFORMING the big event (whatever that may be). Supposedly you can increase your blood flow volume and burn more fat with these techniques.

I would NOT advise using these techniques though as they are unproven at best. If you decide to try them, be careful, they may put a large increase in stress on your system including your heart. To me this approach would seem to promote fat storage as well so there's another reason to steer clear.

~ If you're working hard but doing it for less than 1 hour then plain water is fine because your body hasn't really had time to notice any significant metabolic imbalances. So the recommendation for a sub 1 hour workout is to simply take a 1/2 to 1 liter bottle of H2O along with you and drink when you feel like it (generally recommended at 4 to 8 oz every 15 to 20 minutes). In my own training, I simply take one 1/2 liter of fluids with me for every 1/2 hour of exercise I plan on doing.

~ Workouts lasting over an hour (some info Ive read puts it at beyond 90 minutes) can begin to be effected by metabolic imbalances caused by a lack of hydration, electrolytes (charged minerals) and carbohydrates (sugars). Studies have cited notable decreases in athletic performance in endurance activities lasting from 1 to 3+ hours when water, carbs and salt consumption is not maintained.

~ Please note, you can only "absorb" water at a maximum rate of about 1 liter per hour - drink more or faster than that and your gut can't keep up (and you will notice it).

~ Again, for endurance exercise lasting less than 1 hour, plain water is enough (provided you begin the exercise session in a well hydrated/nourished condition).

~ For endurance sessions going beyond 1 hours duration it's time to be using a "sports drink" of some kind which includes both sodium (salt/electrolytes - potassium) and carbs (sugars).

~ If you are dehydrated from exercising you are likely in need of carbohydrates as well. If an exercise session lasts long enough for dehydration to become a factor, then chances are that carbohydrate depletion also is a factor.

~ Workouts lasting beyond 1.5 hours should involve both hydration AND nutrition components (carbohydrates to help maintain glycogen levels) or you and your performance will suffer to some extent.

~ Carbohydrates for liquid nutrition basically means sugars which metabolize relatively quickly into glycogen or glucose (blood sugar) for quick energy. Note, the better sport drinks will use more than one type of sugar which enhances absorption.

~ It has also been claimed that during training, hydration and nutrition recovery processes are enhanced by the presence of protein in drinks containing carbohydrates at a ratio of around 1:4 protein:carbs.

The evidence is not conclusive yet on this but it probably wouldn't hurt to have the extra calories and lasting digestive properties of a little extra protein during an long workout. I tend to use these products my self especially if my workout session includes any strength building elements whereby protein supplementation is known to be beneficial.

A word of caution is in order here though in so far as it is known that protein in excess can in fact contribute to dehydration - which would seem to conflict with the benefits stated above. On this you'll have to come to your own conclusion for now.

THE DANGER OF HYPONATREMIA

During a long workout or event, if you are merely drinking water without electrolytes (specifically "sodium" supplementation) you are flirting with a potential fatal condition called Hyponatremia.

Hyponatremia is "low blood sodium" levels. In the context of training, this condition of metabolic imbalance can happen from not getting enough salt or from getting too much water in your system (which dilutes the blood sodium levels).

Once thought of as rare, this deadly condition is beginning to be in the news more and more often. You can avoid becoming a victim of it by remembering that water is for sub 1 hour (short duration) fluid replacement. Go past an hour and you'll need salt in your sport drink (probably it has it already included).

HYDRATION AND MOUNTAIN CLIMBING

The higher up we go the less air pressure and the dryer the air is. As a climber, probably you'll encounter a lot of sun and a lot of wind as well as a lot of intense physical effort. This presents a problem when it comes to hydration.

A person at altitude will lose more water due to higher respiration rates and dryer air among other things. Dehydration can mimic or make AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) worse and possibly contribute to its onset.

One of the keys to a successful climb (perhaps even surviving it) is to stay as hydrated as humanly possible ESPECIALLY WHILE AT A HIGH CAMP! Drink up to a half liter per half hour and don't forget the electrolytes as well.

On summit day, you WILL get dehydrated but try not to die from it at least. Most summits should require transporting (or melting and drinking) from 1-2 liters of fluids at a minimum.. but thats pushing it.

So drink up while in camp and get ready to suffer.



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Sunday, September 14, 2008

Peaking and Tapering*

Fitness training (like pretty much every thing else in the universe) is made up of cycles, phases, peaks and valleys - it is not a steady state. Whether your talking reps, sets, rests, recovery, cycling or periodization, everything in fitness training involves some sort of sine wave function.

Performing at your best on the big day requires that you "peak" in your bodies physiological abilities at just the right time. In order to do this you can't just go harder and harder and harder right up to "race day" because just when you need the most stored up energy your gas tank will be on empty.

PEAK TRAINING vs PEAK PERFORMING

Tapering (reducing exercise) your TRAINING just prior to your PEFORMING is essential to getting to that peak PERFORMANCE goal youre aiming at. This means that while in the long term, during TRAINING you stress and stimulate your body up to and beyond its prior abilities into new levels of peak ability, you are simultaneously draining its short term response (PERFORMANCE) potential to make the most out your training.

The solution to this dichotomy is that you have to restore the bodies short term (PERFORMANCE) response potentials through recovery without lessening its hard earned gains in peak abilities.

In plain English, you have to be fully recovered from TRAINING in order to PERFORM at your best on the big day.

CARDIO TAPERING

Tapering theories are many and varied but it's hard to talk about tapering without talkng about training cycles or "PERIODIZATION" as well.

What I generally try to shoot for in my own approach is to start a "period" (training cycle) relatively slowly using endurance building protocols of "go moderate and go longer".

Then, over time, I begin to introduce intensity into the mix, ie "go faster and harder". I begin to include more interval training as the cycle or "period" progresses and maybe carry a pack or hit the hills.

Next I try to max out the training with full on duration and full on intensity all at the same time. This is when I hit my TRAINING peak but not my PERFORMANCE peak.

Finally, days prior to a "big day" (performing in an event or going on a big, hard climb etc..) I cut down on the duration dramatically while keeping the intensity levels relatively high.

It looks like this graphically


In the graphic, time goes from left to right.

As my training progresses, the duration increases (goes up in the graph) to a point, and then it tapers off (goes down) to provide the vital recovery needed for the big event. So at first, the intensity is kept low, but then builds into the duration cycle. Then, with the duration dropping off for recovery, the intensity is mostly maintained (with much shorter duration) so that the body remains accustomed to the very hard (intense) efforts needed to perform at my best.

Another reason for doing it this way is that low intensity long duration training reduces the "power" response (related to intensity) in the body but training with intensity (including shortening the duration) does NOT reduce the long duration endurance response in the body as much (once you have trained it for endurance). To sum it up, endurance training hurts your strength/power, but strength/power training does not hurt your endurance as much nor as soon.

On the big day then (what ever that entails), my body's systems "know" what it is to work hard (ie "intense") because I am still pushing the intensity levels pretty high. And yet, I am well rested and recovered because I have dramatically tapered down the time (duration) of my training in order to gain the required energy reserves and allow the the full anabolic (metabolic reconstruction) response to play itself out.


Now strictly speaking, tapering of coarse is just one aspect of periodization. With this approach in general, the idea is to use "periods" of time where mainly one aspect of performance is developed while the others are recovering.

An example of what is called "linear periodization" might look like this:

Phase 1 for base and endurance building.
Phase 2 for strength and power building.
Phase 3 for speed, agility and peak training.
Phase 4 for peak performing (after tapering).
phase 5 for recovery (off season).

Each phase (or "mezo-cycle") can last from days to several weeks and is part of a "macro-cycle" which comprises the time segment from the onset of training on up to the day of the specified performance goal.

Although I can't say that I have carried this approach out to its detailed perfection, I have drawn upon and utilized many of the ideas and the templates of this approach in my own training. If nothing else, this method points to the real benefits that can be had from varying your training to accommodate the different physiological aspects that must come into play in order to maximize your training and performance potential.

For another point view on this topic you should read this article. Ironically, I "discovered" and began using my own periodization techniques well before I had even heard of the term as it simply made logical sense to me. I even intuitively used the commonly accepted "wave form" model as a means to describe and visualize the methods. I guess that says more about how simple the theory is rather than how "smart" I am LOL!

At any rate, my specific plan and approach may not be right for you considering that we all have different goals, physiological make ups and are at various levels of fitness. If you already have good VO2 max (ability to use oxygen efficiently) and endurance capabilities for instance you might need to start with strength or power building sessions rather than endurance training. Or say if you are getting ready for a whole season of climbing rather than just one single climb you would have to adjust accordingly by peaking early and just using a maintenance routine to stay in condition.

Like I said, you will need to do some experimenting or trial and error before you get it right for you. In the end though, some form of tapering and periodization is definitely a good idea if you desire to get the most out of your training so study up on it.

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Wednesday, August 27, 2008

How "fit" are you?*

You can take a personal performance based fitness assessment at this URL http://www.adultfitnesstest.org/

I took it and frankly thought it ranked me too high. But then I realized it compares you to other "average" people and unfortunately, average people these days are not very fit.

The following scale is pretty subjective and it certainly has little to do with objective performance based fitness assessments. It's merely meant as a quick cross reference to correlate some of the information found on this blog. Don't take it as iron clad factual truth, its not meant to be.


F1 = Sedentary
F2 = Average
F3 = Above Average
F4 = Truly Fit
F5 = Elite

F1 = Sedentary:
Couch potato. You eat, drink and or smoke anything and everything. You "enjoy" hours of TV per day. You try to avoid all activity. Most likely, you're on meds of some kind"s", perhaps with multiple health issues manifesting. Your RHR (Resting Heart Rate) is over 70 bpm.

F2 = Average:
Minimally active. You do not train. You can do moderate flat terrain walks and maybe even jog for 30 seconds or so before you collapse. You feel guilty about it, but you eat mostly crap. You probly have some current minor possibly chronic injury or a pending or neglected health issue. Your RHR is 61-70 bpm.

F3 = Above Average:
Regular gym trainer 3-4 days/week. You're probably a hiker or pedal biker. You could summit Mt Rainier right now but it would be pretty hard. You avoid the crappiest foods but still give in to junk occasionally. You may be dealing with some occasional minor health or injury issues but you try to avoid the doctor. Your RHR is 60 bpm or less.

F4 = Truly Fit:
Serious about training. You enter and do charity runs or other distance events. You maybe an amateur sport team or club member. You train consistently 4-6 days a week and you study the topic. You could summit Mt Rainier likely without much difficulty. You are fortunate having good health and a lack of injuries. You are picky about your "health food" packed diet. Your RHR is less than 55 bpm.

F5 = Elite Athlete:
You enter and win competitions. You have few peers who can compare in your chosen sport. Common routes on Mt Rainier are "a hike" for you. Being genetically gifted, you likely have your name in a book or records somewhere. You consult with coaches and doctors to custom design your full time training program. "Obsessed" understates your mindset in that you have a custom built life of 24/7 training/performing (along with the money to support it). In short, you live for your sport. Your RHR (Resting Heart Rate) is 50 bpm or less, maybe far less.


Where do you land on this scale?

Some of your fitness potential is predetermined genetically but only at the high F4 to F5 "performance" levels (unless you were born with some physical limitations aka "disabilities").

F5 people are born with their F5 potential for the most part but still have to train hard in order to reach that potential. And there is evidence that pushing it too hard actually does the opposite of producing fitness so depending on how you look at it, elite F5 level sport may not be the healthiest thing to do to your body.

If you are an "average" person with less than elite athletic genetic potential then pushing your training routine into those high performance levels will be extreme for you. Your body will be stressed beyond proper recovery protocols and you will be detracting from your health fitness levels.

However, below F4+ (high F4 to F5) there is an incredible amount of room to control and realize your own potential IF YOU TRAIN TO.

But, its up to you to set your priorities and goals.

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Saturday, August 23, 2008

Why Protein?*

First of all, you need to know a couple things. Training ALWAYS involves 2 distinct phases - one is the "catabolic", stimulant or work phase, the other is the "anabolic", response or recovery phase. Catabolic means "to break down" or to metabolically take apart. Anabolic means "to build up" or to metabolically assemble. Catabolism burns or uses up nutrients, tissue and energy. Anabolism repairs and restores nutrients, tissue and energy.

Increasing your level of fitness then means creating a positive state of balance between anabolism and catabolism with a net gain on the anabolic side of the equation.

Training for "fitness" then, involves 3 things:
1) Exercise
2) Recovery (aka rest)
3) Nutrition

1 is catabolic.
2 and 3 are anabolic.

Exercising increases your protein requirements (sometimes greatly) because exercise itself is catabolic - ie, it uses up energy stores and breaks down nutrients and tissue. The catabolic phase is not a bad thing though because it's what stimulates the desired positive anabolic effects.

But you must supply the necessary ingredients for the desired anabolic effect to take place - namely, nutrition and rest.

Put another way, after an exercise session (and to some extent during), the anabolic process that builds muscle (and thus strength) are enhanced by having more protein (amino acids) available for that process.

Basically, muscle is made mostly of protein and protein is made of amino acids. When you train, one of the things that happens is that you actually damage the muscle cells with microscopic tears. Part of the reason you get bigger, stronger muscles from training is that the "anabolic" repair process gets stimulated and activated because of the damage that occurs during the "catabolic" work phase.

You can't just train by continuously exercising (if you did without eating and resting you would simply wither away). You also need to recover from exercise and restock the nutrients that supply the energy for muscle functioning and repair.

Protein feeds the anabolic process by providing the building blocks for muscle tissue synthesis (aka muscle building or rebuilding).

For these reasons, I use protein supplements daily (when training). Although you could possibly get enough protein from a non-supplemented diet, chances are you are not (for an athlete, need in grams = .75 X lbs in body weight, which is 2X the RDA). I personally believe that protein supplements are almost an essential part of nutrition if you are at all training seriously.

Some cautions and further considerations:

Protein seems to work best when it is combined with carbohydrates as these have a positive effect on slowing muscle protein catabolism and thus aiding protein synthesis in the muscle. Most protein supplements do include some amount of carbs, however, if you take a protein supplement with you to the gym you may want to mix it with some carbs (a carb sports drink for instance) as well. More importantly though, soon after exercise you should definitely consume both carbs and proteins.

High levels of protein ingestion may be a little hard on the kidneys. If you have kidney issues don't do protein supplements without talking to your doctor first. In general, its a good idea to drink more water when supplementing with protein (helps metabolize it) and also to "cycle off" of protein every couple months for a week or 2.

There are different kinds (sources) of protein supplements with the main difference being the speed with which they are metabolized in the body. Fast (Whey Protein) is good sometimes (barring allergies) while slow (Casein) may be good at others. Some people say that a mix (multiple source) of proteins is the best way to go but for me the deciding factor often comes down to "whats on sale".

There are various philosophies when it comes to which protein suppliment is best for which times etc, but generally no conclusive evidence to support them. I usually prefer Whey protein with a lower sugar content.

When to supplement with protein

As mentioned, if you are working out hard at least 3 days a week, then you should be getting at least .75 grams (or more) of protein for every lb of body weight. This is TOTAL protein in your daily diet.

WHEN you ingest it is not as critical as THAT you ingest it. The goal is to have an adequate supply of amino acids available to respond to the stimulus of exercise. There is some evidence however that ingesting a protein drink (and some carbs as well) within an hour or so of finishing your workout will benifit the anabolic recovery process.

If Im in a "bodybuilding" phase, personally I drink some protein before, during and after a heavy weight training session.

A note of caution. Don't expect protein supplements to do anything (except make you fat) unless you are working out hard and seriously. The supplemental protein is ONLY there to benefit the anabolic/recovery effect but if you don't supply a sufficient training stimulus then the only thing you will be effecting is your waste line.

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Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Did you "Fartlek"?

The term fartlek (Swedish for "speed play") is being replaced now by the general term "interval training" (although true interval training is slightly different).

Whatever term you choose to use (it's fine to call it "interval training") it generally refers to a low to moderate intensity cardio/aerobic exercise session that is interspersed with several brief high intensity ANaerobic periods (intervals) of the same exercise.

Some people simply call this a "go hard-go easy" workout which I guess gets right to the point. Anyway, it might help at this point to again refer to and recall the heart rate training zones so here is that list:

zone 1) warm up/cool down zone 60-70% of MHR
zone 2) basic fitness zone 70-75% of MHR
zone 3) aerobic endurance zone 75-85% of MHR
zone 4) anaerobic lactate AT-LT zone 85-90% of MHR
zone 5) anaerobic speed zone 90+% of MHR

A typical 30 minute "Interval" training session might go something like this:

Warm up and 10-12 minutes at zone 2 pace (basic fitness zone, 70-75% of MHR)

1 minute at zone 4 (ANaerobic lactate zone 85-90% of MHR)

2 minutes at zone 2 pace (basic fitness zone 70-75% of MHR)

1 minute at zone 4 (ANaerobic lactate zone 85-90% of MHR)

2 minutes at zone 2 pace (basic fitness zone 70-75% of MHR)

1 minute at zone 4 (ANaerobic lactate zone 85-90% of MHR)

2 minutes at zone 2 pace (basic fitness zone 70-75% of MHR)

1 minute at zone 4 (ANaerobic lactate zone 85-90% of MHR)

2 minutes at zone 2 pace (basic fitness zone 70-75% of MHR)

1 minute at zone 4 (ANaerobic lactate zone 85-90% of MHR)

3 minutes at zone 2 pace (basic fitness zone 70-75% of MHR)

2 minutes at zone 1 cool down (60% MHR or less)

You get the idea.

Traditional "fartleks" can vary quite a bit more than the sample session above indicates, but the main take away point is that interval training in general involves repeatedly and alternately going from aerobic zone into ANaerobic zone levels of intensity and then back again, all during one continuous session.

There are many (numerous) benefits to interval training but one end result will be that it pushes up your AT (ANaerobic Threshold) and your LT (Lactate Threshold) so that these thresholds are delayed and occur at higher levels of exercise intensity.

This kind of training utilizes and conditions both aerobic and ANaerobic energy systems so that they both become stronger, more efficient and more responsive to demand.

In real life terms, this means that you won't get as out of breath as early, you won't feel that lactate "burn" feeling as early, you won't have to work as hard to go just as fast as usual, and you will burn more calories and fat than you'd do with continuous heart rate training.

Another important benefit of interval training is that it can condition more type 2 (fast twitch) muscle fibers which usually don't get involved as much during low intensity aerobic exercise. Type 2 "Fast twitch" muscle fiber is made for quick and powerful movement but does not have a high aerobic capacity (compared to type 1 slow twitch) unless you train it too.

One recent article I read cited some studies that found interval training to be the "quickest method" to gain cardio/aerobic fitness - better than steady pace (single heart zone) training. Intuitively this makes sense to me as you get your heart rate up quite a bit higher and work the muscles harder with intervals.

A good interval training session for hikers/climbers is to find a short hill nearby and do runs (sprints) up the hill followed by lower paced flat or down hill periods. This can mimic (to some extent) some of the stresses you encounter when hauling heavy packs into thinner air.

Whatever technique you choose just follow the main principles as mentioned above alternating "go hard-go easy". It will get you breathing hard and in training that's a good thing.



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Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Basics Training*

Ok, here we go with the basic knowledge that anyone who wants to train smart should possess.

For building a general all-round base of fitness (which you may then add to for more "specialized" or sport specific goals) your exercise regiment should include these 3 basic elements:

STRENGTH TRAINING
CARDIO/AEROBIC (ENDURANCE) TRAINING
FLEXIBILITY TRAINING

While these elements are merely my "basic" divisions for achieving a base level of fitness, they are also what I find myself continuously going back to - being the main points for organizing most of my training around.

There are of coarse further subdivisions of these basics (such as developing power, balance, speed, coordination) but when I think of "training" or "exercising", I am usually thinking of some aspect of strength, endurance and flexibility. These 3 are what I aim to train and these 3 are what I aim to improve. Simple eh?

If there is any sport or physical endeavor that does not involve these 3 basic elements I don't know what it is.

STRENGTH TRAINING

Strength training means repeatedly stimulating the muscle tissues (mostly what is called type 2 fast twitch muscle fibers) AND the nervous system to respond to increasing loads or resistance. Simply put, you want to get stronger.

To do this you need to push, pull, lift and or carry weight. It can be body weight, or it can be "weights", or it can be simulated weight like rubber bands and such.

Whatever the method is it needs to produce some kind of resistance to your desired direction of movement in order to stimulate a hormonal/neuromuscular response that results (with recovery) in an increase in ability to move heavier loads.

There are numerous benefits to increased strength such as stronger bones, less fat and an increased capability to do "work" (movement) with less effort etc, but one I like to focus on is the ability to protect and stabilize joints (a common focal point of injury).

You still may not be able to pull an over hanging roof on a particular climb without good technique, but with strength training you might be able to avoid tearing your rotator cuff when you try the move.

At the gym, I use a combination of body weight, machines, cable systems and free weights for my strength training. Mixing it up helps keep injuries at bay, keeps me from being bored and keeps my body from staying in a rut (hitting a plateau) for to long.

I use moderate level weight mostly as it is exceedingly easy to injure yourself when lifting really heavy weights. In fact, injuries are probably the most common end result of people taking up weight lifting IMO.

Strength routines should be made up of "sets" (usually 3-6 sets per session).

A "set" is a series of repetitions or "reps" of a given movement (like bench press or dumbell curl) of a particular exercise.

Between sets you rest from 1-2 minutes usually.

A set normally consists of somewhere between 8 to 20 reps.

Higher weights (more resistance) generally means you should do lower reps. This approach is best for building general strength (as opposed to hypertrophy "big muscles" or muscle endurance).

Lower weights allow you to do more reps and is good for building muscle endurance, speed and power, and easing into heavier weight lifting.

Moderately heavy weights (not extremely heavy) are good for "bulking" or body building. This generally means lifting about 8-12 reps as your maximum ability.

Lifting fast (quick "burst" type or "speed" lifting - which should be done only with moderate to light weights) develops the good neuromuscular response and coordination that is referred to as "power".

Power = explosive movement which is the most useful and practical kind of movement there is - especially in sports.

"Rest" doesn't mean "a day off" (that's called "recovery"). Rest means the time you take between sets (usually from 1-2 minutes). The heavier you lift the longer the rest (up to 5 minutes for super heavy weights). Resting allows the muscle to reconstitute it's energy supply (ATP) for the next set and to get rid of things like lactic acid which inhibit muscle function.

"Recovery" means you don't lift the very next day after a session. You should strive for 48 hours minimum between strength training sessions. Recovery is the time your muscles repair and rebuild themselves.

I am obsessed about not getting injured while lifting. You need to know the difference between stress and strain, between push and pain. If you don't know the difference, you WILL get hurt!

Any sharp pain (no matter how tiny) any pain in a joint that you are questioning or have doubts about at all and it is time to STOP. This is different than being stressed or tired or feeling "the lactate burn". KNOW THE DIFFERENCE, so many people don't and even I sometimes can't tell.

I always do warm up movements and then follow that up with warm up sets. What I often do is hit the sauna and shadow box (5 minutes), then do 5 minutes of aerobic zone cardio, then start with a light lifting (strength) set (20 reps minimum) or 2 before I dig into the moderate to heavy loads.

If you don't warm up with low intensity movement before you start to "lift heavy" you will get injured. Warm, blood engorged muscles and more importantly tendons and ligaments are much more protected from injury and are much more ready for the stresses to come.

I strive always to be in control of the weight, no wobbles, no awkward levering or sudden swinging movements, and I try to keep the weight in close (to the center of my body mass) unless I am training specific muscles that require another type of motion (and then I am using lighter weights).



Finally, as you progress in your strength training (generally adding 5-10 % weight every couple weeks) even though your muscle tissues may be relatively strong and ready for heavier loads your tendons and ligaments may still not be ready for lifting heavier - not to mention a possible lack of neuromuscular coordination due to not enough lower intensity weight training.

If you're not a long time lifter take your sweet time progressing because usable strength is not just a matter of raw "big muscle" strength, and you really don't want to get sidelined with an injury either. There is a coordination (neurological) element as well which only comes with movement experience.

If you are relatively inactive, your first goal in resistance training is to build a base level of strength fitness before pushing it to extremes.

CARDIO/AEROBIC (general "ENDURANCE") TRAINING

Although the terms "cardio" and "aerobic" do not mean the same thing, often people use them to refer to the same kind of exercise - that is sustained, low intensity, high duration exercises like jogging, biking, swimming, cross country skiing.

This kind of exercise targets the cardio vascular system (of coarse including to some extent the respiratory "lung" system) as well as the aerobic metabolic energy pathways and fat burning mechanisms to improve overall endurance performance.

Endurance activities generally "recruit" (utilize) what are called (type 1) slow twitch muscle tissue. Slow twitch muscle fiber is better suited than fast twitch (type II) for using fat as fuel and for using the slower aerobic (with oxygen) metabolic pathways.

If you don't train these systems (with at least some amount of "cardio" training) you may get strong, but you won't be as fit (especially concerning your heart, lungs and circulatory system) or as healthy as you would if you did. You also would be less able to sustain higher levels of activity for very long such as running, trail hiking, volcano climbing or going for a long bike ride etc.

Cardio training has a positive effect on over all circulation and therefore on blood nutrient transportation which speeds up the healing processes and helps prevent injuries.

Cardio training strengthens the heart and lungs and helps your body learn to use fat as a fuel source (although strength training does this as well).

Cardio training has so many benefits that if I were only able to choose one type of exercise I would probaby choose cardio if for no other reason than the health gains alone.

But, cardio training (as often understood) can be pretty hard on many people as it involves a high number of repetitive movements (some jarring, for example "running") and some are just not built to take those sustained forces.

Other people though seem to be naturally made for cardio (endurance type) activities as they not only have a predominance of the type 1 slow twitch muscle fibers (which are well suited for long duration exercise) but manage to tolerate the sustained punishment with few or no injuries and have a "genetically gifted" heart lung capacity (VO2 max) as well. Im jealous of such people - I'm not one of them.

Unless you're a naturally gifted F5 athlete, its best for your health to limit (not eliminate!) your cardio/aerobic training to some extent because of its high "catabolic" (tissue consuming) and "over training" potential if it is abused.

The vast majority of people however can and should find a way to do some type of cardio training if they have the desire to because there are lower impact forms of the exercise.

Elliptical trainers, recumbent bike machines, even swimming are some good alternatives to pavement pounding marathons, or hauling yourself up and down mountain sides with a bike or a heavy pack.

Regardless of the form, cardio exercise is where you make use of the "training zones" or "Target Heart Rates" THR (see that topic).

Cardio/aerobic exercise must raise your heart rate and generally takes place somewhere between 60% and 90% of your MHR (Maximum Heart Rate). (Remember that heart rate changes with -and is adjusted by- exercise intensity.)

If you are inactive, your first goal in aerobic training is to build a base level of cardio fitness and not jump right into an advanced "ideal" training routine. This will take months not weeks or days.

Below is a sample "IDEAL" cardio training schedule for someone who has already gotten to a base level of cardio/aerobic fitness.

It is based on a 7 day (weekly) cycle and uses heart rate training zones to indicate intensity levels.

NOTE: "Intervals" are short periods (30-60 seconds) of higher intensity efforts (zones 4 or 5).

Day 1
zones 3 and 4 (include intervals)
for 45min to 1 hr

Day 2
zones 1 and 2
for 30 min

Day 3
zones 3 and 4 (include intervals)
for 45min to 1 hr

Day 4
zones 1 and 2
for 30 min

Day 5
rest (do nothing)

Day 6
zones 2 and 3
for 2 to 4 hours (your "long day")

Day 7
zone 1 (active recovery)
for 30 min


FLEXIBILITY TRAINING

Stretching should be a serious component of your training sessions. When in past times I didn't take it seriously the result was a higher rate of injury. Since Ive gotten more serious and methodical about it I feel less stiff and am not as injury prone. That's been my experience and that fits with most of the studies and information currently available on the subject.

Don't stretch before your strength and cardio sessions. Thats right I said DON'T! Here's why..

The latest information I've read cites studies showing a reduced level muscular strength and a slightly higher rate of injury occurring in athletes that stretch JUST BEFORE a workout or sport event.

Don't stretch without first warming up. Get the blood flowing through the muscles, ligaments and tendons BEFORE you stretch them.

Stretch only AFTER your strength and cardio sessions. See the previous paragraph for why. Stretching post workout also helps with recovery and prepares you for the next days workout.

Stretch for at least 10 minutes (minimum) in total.

I prefer to hold each stretch for 30 seconds. This is called "static stretching" and is the kind of stretching that produces greater overall flexibility. Don't forget to stretch both sides of the body.

Stretch by muscles or muscle groups - learn the names (anatomy) and hit all the major muscle groups each session.

The main muscle groups are the abdominals, adductors (inside thigh), dorsal muscles (middle back), shoulders, arm extensors, wrist extensors, gluteals (butt), arm flexors, wrist flexors, scapular fixers (shoulder blade), thigh flexors (hamstrings), lumbar muscles (lower back), surae (calves), pectorals (chest), quadriceps (front thigh) and trapezii (upper back). ["Strength Training Anatomy", Delavier F, 2006].

Don't focus on stretching "joints" as this mind set can lead to over extension and joint injury. Although joint flexing and increasing your joint ROM (Range Of Motion) is part of stretching you should think "stretch MUSCLE" not joints.

Don't torque or lever joints in a direction that they were not meant to go. Look at how your joints move. Use them in those ways only especially when stretching. Often I see people pulling their joints at odd angles - NOT GOOD.

Stretching need not be "dramatic", painful, or extreme to improve flexibility or ROM. In fact, you can get injured (I have) by stretching something too far, so when stretching definitely do NOT live by the phrase "no pain no gain".

Finally, try to stretch every day.


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Wednesday, August 6, 2008

3 Energy Pathways* (part 2)

ENERGY & MUSCLE IN ACTION

Lets use the example of the act of someone getting up from a chair and going for a run.

In the early stages of any motion (no matter the intensity) or during easy movement (movement = muscle contraction) the ATP demand is fulfilled directly from ATP stored in the muscle.

ATP (up to 2-3 seconds):
In this example this first stage of energy production takes place as the person begins to get off the chair and casually walk toward the running track. At this point most of the energy for their muscle motion comes from the stored ATP in the muscles.

ATP-CP (from 2 to 10/15 seconds):
As the runner takes off (lets say he/she sprints out of the blocks at a super hard pace), from around 2 through the first 10 to 15 seconds or so this hard effort is fueled mainly by the ANaerobic "ATP-CP" or ATP "Creatine Phosphate System" while the main muscles recruited (utilized) are the Type II fast twitch variety.

ANAEROBIC GLYCOLYTIC (15 seconds to 2-3 minutes):
Now lets say our runner continues at a very hard pace (around 90-99% sprint) and goes beyond the initial 10-15 seconds duration (or there abouts) and up to around 2-3 minutes. The energy (ATP) production at this pace is still ANaerobic but can no longer be restocked from the now depleted ATP-CP system because the Creatine-Phosphate has been used up. Here, the ATP must be synthesized mostly from the breakdown of glucose (blood sugar). This pathway will still recruit mostly fast twitch muscle fibers but also with a mix of type 1 slow twitch muscle as well.

A "side effect" of this stage is the production of "waste" products like lactic acid (actually LA has been now declared as a metabolic fuel source) which inhibits and fatigues muscle functioning - ie you feel the burn. So somewhere between 3-4 minutes our runner must slow the pace.

AEROBIC (beyond ANaerobic intensities and duration):
So now going beyong 2-3 minutes, the pace has to be reduced -in this case to a zone 2 jog. Here, our runner begins to "go aerobic" and the main muscle fibers being activated are (or soon will be) the slow twitch type 1 variety.

During this low intensity long duration motion the ATP will be mainly synthesized from the aerobic breakdown of glucose supplied from the carbohydrate glycogen stored in muscles and then later from the liver.

If this movement goes on long enough to diminish muscle glycogen - and is of a low enough intensity to allow the cardio/respiratory system to provide sufficient oxygen - then lipids (fats) will also be metabolized as an energy source - ie fat will become a significant fuel source.

This level of movement can continue as long as the muscles can continue to draw on aerobic pathways for energy. The slow twitch type I muscle fibers that now predominate are the ones best suited for this long term aerobic ATP production.

However should our runner again step up the pace and perhaps do a "hill interval" they will again "go ANaerobic" and use more type II muscles and draw on glycogen and glucose breakdown (to form ATP) WITHOUT the "benefits" (long duration) of optimal oxygen presence.

The predominant fuel/nutrient chronological hierarchy for exercise levels looks something like this:

~ Stored ATP = from 2 to 3 sec
~ ATP-CP = from 3 sec to 10/15 sec
~ ANaerobic Glycolysis = from 15 sec to 2-3 min
~ Aerobic Glycogen & lipids = beyond 3 min ANaerobic durations and below ANaerobic threshold (AT/LT) intensites

Note that you spend the first 15 to 20 minutes of aerobic exercise "burning off" stored muscle glycogen supplies before resupplied glycogen or lipids (fats) significantly come into play as fuel sources.

FAT BURNING ZONE

You may have heard of this but it's really quite the myth.

The idea is that if you keep your cardio exercise intensity levels low enough (zone 2 and below) you will allow the sufficient level of oxygen uptake needed to burn more fat as fuel. It is true that lower intensities DO result in a higher ratio of fats to carbs for ATP generation.

What's wrong with this theory though is simply that you can burn a greater total quantity of fat (not merely a higher ratio) by using higher intensities.

Example: say if you take an hour to complete a slow and low workout and burn 300 calories total at an intensity that provides a 60% fat to 40% carb fuel ratio - you will burn 180 calories of fat.

BUT if you instead do a 50 minute interval workout that burns 600 calories at an intensity that provides a 60% carb to 40% fat fuel ratio you will burn 240 calories of fat and still have ten extra minutes to spare! (not to mention an improved vo2 max, lactate threshold, anaerobic threshold, resting metabolic rate).

To lose more fat (without eating your muscle protein up) short sub 1 hour high intensity cardio is usually the better choice.

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Tuesday, August 5, 2008

3 Energy Pathways* (part 1)

What I outline here are the 3 most important levels of exercise intensity and how your muscles get energy in different ways for those differing levels. This is important to understanding how and why you want to train these various systems with a wide variety of exercise forms and levels of intensity. It gets a little wordy so I'll try to summarize at the end of this section.

In order for a muscle to move (contract or "twitch") it needs a signal in the form of a neuro-electrical impulse and it needs a source of energy to propel the contraction (movement). ATP "Adenosine Tri-phosphate" is the molecule that is the direct source of that energy.

When an intact ATP molecule breaks down (loses a phosphate Ion and becomes ADP "Adenosine-Di-Phosphate") energy gets released. In a nutshell, this energy (acting with specialized "motor proteins" that can convert chemical energy to mechanical) is what propels the contraction of the muscle cell.

ATP is not stable within the body however (stores lasting mere seconds) and so ATP must be remade continuously. Generally speaking, ATP is made from the breakdown of nutrients (example: glucose, amino acids, fatty acids) during a process called "cellular respiration". During cell respiration, chemical energy is taken from the nutrients and stored in the chemical bonds of the rebuilt ATP molecule.

There are basically 3 different paths (types) of cellular respiration and thus 3 "energy pathways" for a muscle to get its energy to contract.

One of these energy pathways is "aerobic" because it utilizes oxygen to metabolize the nutrients into ATP.

The other 2 pathways are "anaerobic" because they DO NOT utilize oxygen to metabolize the nutrients into ATP.

AEROBIC ENERGY

Put simply, the aerobic pathway involves a process of breaking down glucose (blood sugar) while in the presence of oxygen to ultimately produce ATP.

This aerobic pathway is slow when compared to the anaerobic paths in that it relies on breathing and circulation to "replenish" the ATP supplies. This is one reason you increase heart and respiration rates during exercise.

This is the main system for fueling and re-energizing what are called "type 1 slow twitch" (slow movement) muscle fibers.

Because the aerobic pathways take a lot of time to do their thing, these paths mostly operate when you can give them time by keeping the ATP demand at a relative low rate - as in moderate to low intensity endurance type exercise.

In terms of ratio, a larger percentage of fats may be "burned" to make ATP if the exercise intensity (metabolic demand) is kept low on the aerobic level. However, this doesn't mean you burn off "more" fat overall with low intensity exercise. None the less, low level aerobic exercise is often labeled as "the fat burning zone" because of this fact.

Because aerobic pathways dominate the muscle metabolic system at this particular level of demand or intensity, this level of exercise is generally called "aerobic" exercise.

If you step up the intensity however, to a point where the aerobic pathways can't produce the required ATP to energize the muscle, your body begins to switch on the ANaerobic pathways which draw on more immediate sources of fuel.

ANAEROBIC ENERGY

As mentioned earlier, muscles fulfill their refueling needs in different ways depending on exercise intensity and duration - the higher the intensity and shorter the duration, the more the AN-aerobic (without oxygen) pathways predominate. The two major ANaerobic pathways are the ATP-CP system and the Glycolytic system.

ATP-CP (ATP+"CREATINE PHOSPHATE") SYSTEM

The "ATP-CP" or ATP "Phosphate System" predominates in exercises that last a fairly short amount of time. These exercises usually involve high intensity and what are called the type 2 "fast twitch" (fast movement) muscle fibers. This muscle energy system works well for intense exercise lasting 15 or fewer seconds such as lifting, sprinting or pulling a powerful climbing move.

For the first 2 seconds of exercise, direct ATP stores in the muscle are used up, but then the ATP gets "re-built" (resupplied) by "borrowing" phosphate from the Creatine Phosphate stores in the muscle.

Beyond about 10-15 seconds of exercise, a different ANaerobic mechanism begins to dominate if the exercise remains sufficiently intense.

This system is called by many names from the "lactate pathway" to "glucogenic pathway" to the "fermentation pathway" etc.. I call it the Glycolytic or ANaerobic Glycolysis Pathway.

GLYCOLITIC SYSTEM

The ANaerobic Glycolytic pathways are what predominate when both exercise intensity AND duration are at very high levels. This is the principle energy system for intense exercise lasting up to about 2-3 minutes (beyond that, aerobic paths predominate). At this level, the ATP cannot be rebuilt fast enough by the slower aerobic system and the short lived ATP-CP system has been used up, so the ATP gets re-built from the breakdown of glucose (from carbohydrates) but without the presence of oxygen.

One negative of this system is that it allows a build up of "waste" byproducts in the muscle such as lactic acid which is what causes the "burn" feeling during the intense exercise. This is a hall mark of LT (Lactate Threshold) or AT (Anaerobic Threshold) training.

This is also the land of "Intervals" (interval training) and is where you can greatly improve performance by training (repeatedly) this system for efficiency and by building a tolerance for the suffering that often accompanies such hard levels of effort.

TO SUMMARIZE..

Muscle gets energy for movement (contraction) from a molecule called ATP. ATP is made via different ways or "pathways".

If muscle motion is of relatively low intensity (for example walking) the ATP can be supplied through aerobic (with oxygen) pathways.

If the muscle motion reaches certain "thresholds" of intensity (for example sprinting or weight lifting) ANaerobic paths (without oxygen) become the predominate mechanism for resupplying the ATP.

ANaerobic paths are much more time limited than aerobic pathways and once this ANaerobic threshold (AT) is reached these paths cannot be the main energy producing mechanism beyond about 2-3 minutes duration. Beyond that time, muscle motion must either stop or be reduced to a level of intensity that can be supported via aerobic pathways.

Importantly however, the ANaerobic Threshold (AT - often used interchangeably with the term "Lactate Threshold or LT) can be trained or "pushed back" to occur at a higher level of exercise intensity. What this means is that an athlete can (with proper "interval" threshold training) go longer and harder than they could if they do not "train" these pathways.


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Friday, May 30, 2008

Heart Rate Targeting*

Knowing your heart rate (measured in beats per minute or BPM) can help in cardio/aerobic training - especially early on.* Heart rate really is a measure of stress and as thus can tell you a lot about how hard you're really working. This in turn can tell you about things like your current level of fitness and the current level of intensity you are training at or maybe should be training at.

For example, by knowing your Maximum Heart Rate (MHR) you can then find a proper pace to train at in your cardio routine by using a Target Heart Rate. A Target Heart Rate (THR) is a rate (or range) of heart beats per minute which you adjust by working harder or easier - depending on what your particular fitness goals are at the time.

For general fitness goals you don't need to visit a pro medical training facility and get hooked up to machines and blood analyzers in order to get the numbers you can make use of. You can if you want to of coarse, but personally, unless I was competing on an elite level I would not bother (nor could I afford it). Instead, you can use some commonly known formulas and a heart rate monitor to get a "good'nuf" approximation.

Some numbers you should get to know are for instance, your Maximum Heart Rate (MHR). Your Lactate Threshold (LT) which is nearly the same as your Anaerobic Threshold (AT) and are often used interchangeably. This (AT or LT) is the exercise heart rate where you begin to feel "the burn" in your muscles and you begin to get "out of breath". Your Target Heart Rate or "range" (THR) which is a particular heart rate/range at which you need to train at in order to achieve your particular goals. Your Resting Heart Rate (RHR) which can indicate a certain level of fitness among other things.

Other numbers you probably should know (not directly related to heart rate) are for instance your BMR or Basal Metabolic Rate which is basically the number of calories you burn if you were at rest all day (interchangeable with RMR or Resting Metabolic Rate). Knowing your RMR is good if you're into counting calories because it helps you determine your TMR or True Metabolic Rate ie your total caloric needs per day. It helps also to know your BFP or Body Fat Percentage - again, an indicator of fitness or more accurately of health.

MAXIMUM HEART RATE (MHR)

To find your Maximum Heart Rate (MHR) the formula that I use is this called the "Seals" formula developed by an exercise physiologist at the University of Colorado:

208 - (your age X 0.7) = MHR

This gives you a workable approximation to the real time stress tests that you can do on yourself if you wish (do a search). You can always go to a lab of coarse as any formula is liable to be off by some amount.

Example, in my case:
I take my age 46 and multiply that by .7 to get 32.2. I then subtract 32.2 from 208, to get 175 bpm (I drop the final decimal points as a minor adjustment toward a more accurate "real life" number).

175 bpm (beats per minute) is my Maximum Heart Rate (MHR). At least thats the figure that I choose to put my faith in - ie, it's close enough.


TARGET HEART RATE (THR)

The next step is to find a Target Heart Rate/range (THR) to train at to match your fitness goals and importantly as well, your level of fitness. In this method, Your THR will be a percentage of your MHR.

For moderate level aerobic endurance training ("zone 3" the most common level of aerobic training) what has worked for me is to target my heart rate (THR) for a range of between 75 and 85 percent of my MHR. In my case that's my general cardio/aerobic training zone of 131-149bpm. This is the "THR" zone where I spend most of my cardio training time.

THR zones vary some according to opinion but are generally close to what I have listed. Here are the cardio target heart rate zones that I use in my own training:

zone 1) warm up/cool down zone 60-70% of MHR
zone 2) basic fitness zone 70-75% of MHR
zone 3) aerobic endurance zone 75-85% of MHR
zone 4) anaerobic lactate AT-LT zone 85-90% of MHR
zone 5) anaerobic speed zone 90+% of MHR

The idea is to make use of each and all these heart rate zones (via targeting your heart rate by stepping the intensity level either up or down) at some point during a training cycle in order to get the most out of your efforts. More about how to use "zones" later...

*(Always keep in mind though that heart rates vary greatly according to age and fitness level among other things. See a doctor if you are out of shape, on meds, greatly over weight or middle age and beyond before starting an exercise program.)

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Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Gym Training*

I suspect that a lot of climbers I have talked to would not agree with my cardio routine - but it works for me and my goals. For climbing the usual advice you get is to "train for climbing by climbing". They say this for both hill climbing/mountaineering and for rock climbing. To a point I would agree. But you don't really need to do that until the later stages of training when things get more "sport specific".

I do the majority of my training in the gym (fitness gym as opposed to the "climbing gym" - a dirty word to some). I think if all you did for your climb training was "climbing" you'd be trashing your body and limiting yourself. There is a nervous system response to training though, even cardio training, and that becomes apparent when you hit the hills for the first time outside of the gym when your body has to suddenly adapt to subtle and unfamiliar movements on or off trail. "Gee, Im not in as good of shape as I thought I was.." is usually the thought that comes to mind. It's true, no matter how hard you work the cardio in the gym, its just not the same as getting out. But that doesn't mean all you should do is "hike in the hills" in order to train for your big "hike in the hills".

I don't have the gas money or the time to be going off into the mountains every other day to train and that means it's way more convenient for me to hit the gym - which after all, I have already paid for. The gym takes away the "bad weather" excuse, gets me around like motivated people, provides a high energy atmosphere and allows me to be in a bit more control of things by getting pretty specific about what I want to work on in any given session. What can I say, I like it. And although it's not the same as mountain climbing you can still push it hard in the gym and build a good cardio/aerobic base to add onto by doing the real deal.

One very important thing that is missing however in the gym setting is terrain variability. Ive often read or heard that trail runners are prone to sprain their ankles. I don't believe it. Ive rarely seen anyone injured on the trail (Im sure it happens on occasion). I have sprained my ankle several times though, and its always happened on smooth hard surfaces - including tread mills. I have seen people sprain their ankles or torque their knees more than once while jogging on smooth hard pavement or concrete. Repetitive movement is the real enemy IMO, not variable terrain. In fact, by varying the terrain you are working the stabilizing muscles ligaments and tendons that are essential to keeping you balanced and injury free. So when you do cardio in the gym you need to throw a lot of variability into the mix to make up for the fakey perfect environment. Work on a large variety of equipment. This goes for all aspects of gym training including strength training.

Resistance machines remove the variability factor as well, and I have read that more people are injured on weight machines than are injured using free weights. When do strains and sprains occur? It's when a sudden and unfamiliar movement is introduced, or an awkward odd angle stress is put on a muscle or a joint. Machines and tread mills tend to train the body that "nothing like that is going to happen to you" and then because machines and tread mills can't completely eliminate all variability - only reduce your body's ability to adapt to it - when it does occur, the chances of injury are greater. Again, it's really important to mix it up and introduce a lot of variability into your gym workouts.

For me the gym environment is a very positive one and I would even credit my membership with actually changing my life for the better. Its where I created my base level of fitness and where I turn when Im "not feeling it". But I understand that a gym has its limitations as well as its usefulness. The key to gym training for me is to try to get the most out of it and then "step outside" of the limitations (pun intended).

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Friday, February 15, 2008

The 1.5 Hour Routine*

Here is a decent 1.5 hour general workout routine. It touches on upper upper body strength, some cardio and some flexibility aspects of fitness as well. I'd say it could go about 3 days per week with an active rest day between each workout.

A subjective but quite useful way to determine and designate resistance load (how hard the weight is for you to lift) is by the perceived effort it takes to lift-push-pull it. Classified on a scale of 1 to 5, it looks like this:

L1 extremely light weights - very easy effort
L2 light weights - easy, but still work involved
L3 moderate weights - workin, can do 15-22+ reps
L4 heavy weights - hard to go past 10-12 reps
L5 extremely heavy weights - can manage 6-8 reps but no more


For this routine, the repetition pace (how fast you push or pull the weights) is fairly brisk in the first 2 sets for developing the "power" (sudden burst) response in the muscles.

The pace slows somewhat in the last set to avoid injury while lifting the heavier "Level 4" weights. The last set is therefore primarily developing the general "strength" response in the muscles.

The strength routine is called "compound circuit sets". It is a combination of "compound sets" (which are back to back exercise sets working like muscle groups) and "circuit training" (doing consecutive sets with short rests in between and alternating opposing muscle groups in each set). Increase rest times to 1+ minute as weight is added - particularly in the last set.


STRENGTH

SET # 1 ("warm up" set)

5 min sauna with general warm up movements - 30 second rest.

5 min fast rowing machine - 30 second rest.

50 incline sit ups - 30 second rest.

25 bench presses L2 (level 2 = "light" weights) - 30 second rest.

20 tricep cable presses L2 - 30 second rest.

15 shoulder side lateral raises L2 - 30 second rest.

20 wide grip two cable pull downs (each arm) L2 - 30 second rest.

20 sitting cable rowing pulls (both arms together) L2 - 30 second rest.

5 min sauna with warm up movements.

30 second rest.

Note, you have actually just completed 2 "regular" sets of resistance training.

SET # 2

50 incline sit ups - 30 second rest.

20 bench presses L3 (level 3 = "moderate" weights) - 30 second rest.

16 tricep cable presses L3 - 30 second rest.

15 shoulder side lateral raises L3 - 30 second rest.

20 wide grip two cable pull downs (each arm) L3 - 30 second rest.

20 sitting cable rowing pulls (both arms together) L3 - 30 second rest.

30 stationary "farmer walk" lifts to improve grip L3 - 30 second rest.

5 min sauna with warm up movements.

30 second rest.

You have now completed 4 total sets of resistance training.

SET # 3

50 incline sit ups - 30 second rest.

12 bench presses L4 (level 4 = "heavy" weights) - 1 min rest.

12 tricep cable presses L4 - 1 min rest.

18 shoulder side lateral raises L3 - 1 min rest.

20 wide grip two cable pull downs (each arm) L4 - 1 min rest.

14 single cable rowing pulls (both arms together) L4 - 1 min rest.

30 stationary "farmer walk" lifts to improve grip L3 - 1 min rest.

5 min sauna with warm down movements.
1 min rest.


You have now completed 6 total sets of strength training! Get ready for cardio. Replenish your glycogen with a carb protein solution and take your time transitioning from the strength to cardio segments.



CARDIO

Take your choice of which type of cardio you want to do. I like the steep inclined elliptical trainer or a stair master myself. In this case lets use a recumbent (reclined) stationary bike for now. Use the correct HR zones listed *below.


start..

2 minutes basic fitness zone 70-75% MHR

10 minutes aerobic endurance zone 75-85% MHR

:45 interval anaerobic lactate zone 85-90% MHR

1:15 basic fitness zone 70-75% MHR

:45 interval anaerobic lactate zone 85-90% MHR

1:15 basic fitness zone 70-75% MHR

:45 interval anaerobic lactate zone 85-90% MHR

1:15 basic fitness zone 70-75% MHR

:45 interval anaerobic lactate zone 85-90% MHR

1:15 basic fitness zone 70-75% MHR

:45 interval anaerobic lactate zone 85-90% MHR

4:15 basic fitness zone 70-75% MHR

..stop

Total time on bike = 25 minutes

FLEXIBILITY

Stretch for 10 minutes. Be thorough in your flexibility exercises (do a search) as this is an essential component to any fitness routine.

END OF ROUTINE..


Total time in gym aprox 1.5 hours (maybe more like 1:40?)

Now go replenish your carbs and protein with some post workout nutrition.


*
zone 1) warm up/cool down zone 60-70% of MHR
zone 2) basic fitness zone 70-75% of MHR
zone 3) aerobic endurance zone 75-85% of MHR
zone 4) anaerobic lactate AT-LT zone 85-90% of MHR
zone 5) anaerobic speed zone 90+% of MHR


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Sunday, January 27, 2008

Training for Climbing*

For some reason, other climbers, more advance climbers, people who have been doing it for a long time, or people who just plain climb harder than you (me) are reluctant to state the obvious to "newb" climbers - how to get better at it. How do I get from here to where they are?

I have to say, I think the reason they don't usually have an answer to that question is in fact that they haven't put much thought into it and therefor it is not so obvious to them. And why should they when most of them are young enough to simply "just do it" or "just get out and do it more" etc.. Too often this becomes the stock answer.

If you're young (teens to mid twenties), athletic and gifted "just do it" will probably be all the advice you need. With those parameters and a climbing gym membership you can go a long way.

But what if you're not so young anymore (I started rock climbing as a fat 40 year old), or you're not athletically built or talented?

What I write here (below) is advice for the rest of us. It's basic. It's not a training manual. It's is more about correcting the erroneous thought that all you have to do to climb harder is to "climb harder".

It really takes 3 "keys" to be a better climber. Notice I didn't say "the best" or even "a good" climber because in fact, thats all pretty subjective and frankly, I still suck.

What I mean is it takes 3 things to improve your *personal* physical climbing ability on a fundamental level. What are the 3 things? They are:

LEAN
STRONG
SKILLED


LEAN - I speak with the authority of experience here when I say that average persons (especially Americans beyond their mid 20's) are really just too fat to climb! I know that sounds harsh but, lose weight and (duh!) you pull less weight up the rock/mountain and you'll feel stronger too. Really though its not about weight so much as it is about body fat percentage. If you could, (ha ha) add a few inches to your reach as well, that would help. Like it or not, the better climbers in the world are *usually* taller (not always) and certainly leaner than the average person. Unfortunately, your stuck with what you got in the reach department and if you're already lean (low percentage of body fat) then just skip this first key as you likely have a naturally fast metabolism and I'm jealous. Be clear about this though, the climbers who can pull the hardest moves are almost certainly going to be lean, strong - and relatively young. Thankfully for the rest of us there is more to climbing than pulling hard moves.

Start eating right. Change your diet for the better, but don't "diet" because the fat will come back and then some. Avoid a lot of starches and quit saturated fats. Avoid sugar altogether (sucrose and high fructose corn syrup) unless you're in the middle of running a marathon. Eat more fiber. Eat more fish and chicken and leaner red meat. Eat more veggies. Avoid ice cream and use non fat dairy products if at all. Eat more good oils like fish oil and olive oil (do a search). What ever it takes (but don't starve yourself!) to drop that crappy diet and pay attention to what youre eating. Eat for nourishment not for emotional comfort. Thin is in when it comes to climbing your best.


STRONG - It's time to pull some iron. Get stronger than you ever have been, and not only in the upper bod, hands and forearms. The average fat person (aka the average person) is too weak to be climbing with all that extra weight tryin to hump that stuff up a wall. So, while you're working on getting lean, why not get stronger too as it may coincidently help you take off those excess pounds of fat as well?

Some climbers will say that weight training is useless for climbing - complete BS! That is what many martial artists used to say about their "art" before ultimate fighters came along and began kicking their asses with superior strength among other things. Strength training actually happens during the process of becoming a better climber no matter what you do, it helps though to make it intentional. If you only climb as your form of training to climb then you are limiting yourself.

Strength, power, muscle endurance and coordination, play key roles in how well and how hard you climb. Generally, climbing means pushing yourself to near but not beyond your strength maximums. Strength training pushes you beyond your maximum abilities and thus into the realm of progress. Get stronger! Once you've lost some weight AND gotten stronger you will naturally find yourself (if you have the ambition) wanting to work more on developing your actual technical climbing skills. Of coarse, by all means, its best to begin gaining your climbing skills even in the midst of working on the "too fat too weak" aspects so please do some climbing. Just remember (never neglect) the first 2 keys - "lean and strong".

Some climbing "experts" Ive read put most or even all of the emphasis for beginners on developing climbing technique (movement) right at the start and thus neglect strength training and diet - this is not right IMHO (especially for somewhat older fat guys and gals - ei "average"). Climbing easier stuff (as a beginner would be doing) up to a level of say around 5.6 generally takes almost no particular technique but DOES take a certain level of fitness. As the climbs get technically more difficult, actual climbing skills become much more important. But first you have to have achieved at least a moderate level of fitness (aka good strength to weight ratio), especially if your planning to climb the more technical routes because they demand not only technique, but the combination of all keys - which is to say they demand both "fitness" AND "skill".

So start a strength building routine if you have not already, you will notice the difference. Emphasize "core strength" with fundamentals first - sit ups - push ups - pull ups - squats etc.. Hit the bench press and dumbell curls, do lat pull downs and tricep presses. Eventually, to climb harder routes you'll need strong fingers, wrists, forearms, toes, feet, ankles, and calves too. And remember that this is about RELATIVE strength here - ie you're after a personal "high strength to weight ratio", not out to be "Joe body builder".


SKILLED - Here we get to the "just do it" part. "Skilled" in this context means both technically proficient ("technique") AND bio-mechanically experienced. Technically proficient is having a full bag of tricks in your move repitior. "Experienced" or "bio-mechanically experienced" here means having these moves ingrained in your bodies memory. This all comes down to climbing, or learning *HOW* to climb. To train for this nothing beats bouldering IMHO (do a search). Challenge yourself to boulder on smaller and smaller holds (except in the off season when you should stick to juggy holds to prevent trashing your finger joints). Do balance moves, do extreme and dramatic weight shifts, long reaches, side pulls, lie backs, under clings, hand, fist and foot jams, heel n toe hooks, hand and foot cams, knee drops, mantles, single and 2 finger pockets, slopers, pinchers, crimpers, overhangs and roofs, down climbs as well as up climbs, step thrus and back steps, climb hard, climb easy (relaxed), climb slabs, climb awkward, go beyond vertical A LOT, do laps, be very creative, push yourself, make up routes on real rock or in the gym, just climb! And climb every variation of terrain you can find etc..repeatedly! Its learning to climb by "rote", almost a military approach, but if climbing better is your goal then I think this is the best way. (do a search on avoiding climbing injuries)

Skill comes from experience and that means developing the body memory of how to solve certain bio-mechanical problems you encounter when climbing - ie how your body responds when its time to make (send) an awkward move. Like a musician or dancer, you develop your "rock chops" through technical experience (ie mastering technique via practice) and eventually it's a subconscious "skill thing" as apposed to always relying on "thinking thru" the moves. You can never completely get away from "thinking thru" or "sequencing" moves especially if you're climbing something for the first time, its just that it really helps to have the body memory of "how to climb" ingrained in your central nervous system.

It's not that complicated really. It comes down to a question, "Am I climbing as hard as I want to be?" If the answer is no then remember the 3 keys and get going.

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